Jonesville is a great spot, and includes many ex-Pats and ex-cruisers living around the area. We were greeted by Larry, Woodside Marine, who hailed us as we entered the anchorage and told of us a good spot to drop the hook.
Don and Yvonne of Usquaebach are the "mayors" - their island home sits just inside the reef and they watch the entry and departures of the cruising boats, know everything about the island, and offer their assistance in so many ways. On Wednesday, Maggie joined their weekly ride with 8 other cruisers for errands down island. We had to stop at the vet's office to pick up a worm pill to give Rosie after her episode with the ticks, and search for a bearing for Bob to repair the wind generator.
Tuesday, while we were down below reading and working, we heard, and felt, "bam ... bam ... bam." A 20' launcha (similar to the one below) rammed into our hull. The driver was protecting his eyes from the blinding sun, by putting an umbrella over them. He couldn't see our 42' sailboat sitting peacefully at anchor in broad daylight?! He kept going ... didn't even stop. Bob moved quicker than he has in a while, jumped into the dinghy, checked out the damage, and took off after him. Here in this country, there is no reporting to the police, no insurance claim ... we just have to deal with it. Bob ran up to Hole in the Wall, where the local gang and many cruisers hang out in the afternoon; he got consolation and a few beers! The next day, Bob sanded and buffed the spots, and SeaTryst looks as good as new. Fortunately, there was no damage.
One of the characters at Hole in the Wall is Randy, a graduate of the same high school in Bloomfield, NJ as Bob. They had many interesting conversations. Behind him is the owner of Hole in the Wall, Bob with Duane. The ex-patriots are a unique breed and all have that island look.
This is a very active anchorage. Since it is more efficient to get from one village to another by boat rather than car, all kinds of boats zip by all day and night - young local boys with their "mating call" (bow sticking straight up in the air, pounding up and down), water taxis for local and tourists, shrimpers, and even school children in their yellow "bus".
We toured the 7 miles of mangrove canals, going to the beautiful bays nearby and small fishing village of Oak Ridge, and on over to Calabash, all the while staying inside the reef. Many of the canals are lined with houses built on stilts over the water. The locals built over the water because no one owns the water and it was an easy way to get around.
Fortunately, we had Kajia's Song in the anchorage with us, and Gary had repaired his Kiss wind generator "no less than 14 times." He was on Wednesday's island trip, and was able to help Maggie find the right bearing, and sold us some extra spare seals since we couldn't find those here. Bob used Woodside's workshop to take the wind generator apart, and replace the bearing and seals. We put it up that afternoon, and it is quieter and smoother than it ever has been in the 5 years we've had it. It must have been defective all along and we didn't know it.
We were thrilled to be surprised byTashmoo's arrival on the 15th. We spent the afternoon riding through the mangrove canal and taking a surprise swim in the clear water. (There is no clear water in Jonesville, as it is surrounded by villages without septic systems. Actually, the septic system here is an outhouse at the end of the dock.) Maggie caught Bob, Cindy and John with the pants down? .... bottom's up?? as they dove in their underwear into the crystal clear water.
After a few more days in Jonesville, we pulled anchor and moved 5 miles east to Port Royal. The first anchorage was a quiet one, and a nice respite from the daily activity of Jonesville. We again beat into 20 kt wind and 4-5' seas. Cindy and John took a mooring at Mango Creek Lodge, and we went on to the east harbor.
Since there is no internet or Tigo phone service in this remote spot, we left the next morning for the western harbor and picked up a mooring ball, next to Tashmoo.
Mango Creek is a wonderful place (www.mangocreeklodge.com ), owned by former cruisers Terry and Patrice, who did a circumnavigation over 6 years. Mango Creek is a fly fishing-eco resort with four cabanas over the water. Terry is a great host, welcomed us to a free mooring, use of their washing machine, water from the mountain spring to fill our jerry jugs, internet at their office, and lovely grounds to meander in. We joined him for dinner on Friday night - fried chicken, french fries, salad, dessert, drink before dinner and wine with dinner, all for $20.
Patience, the 15-year-old parrot, has a vocabulary of over a 100 words, and entertains us. She sings Happy Birthday (or Bird-day), and mimics Maggie's laugh.
Port Royal is beautiful, tranquil, and tough to beat. Rosie even enjoys the peacefulness of the place and pulls out her toys for morning playtime.
We'll stay here a few days to re-oil the teak interior and wait for the rainy, squally weather to subside. Then hopefully on to head east and the island of Guanaja, the easternmost of the Bay Islands.